Saturday, 18 Sept - Clermont-Ferrand

Another busy day - but there are lots of things going on that I don't want to miss.  Fred agreed to make fish for dinner tonight and then suggested stuffed trout.   I went down the street to the veggie store and got the veggies we need for tonight as well as salad fixings and some fresh fruit and (not so fresh) cheese.  Then we both went to the covered market to get the fish.  The first fish vendor had good looking trout, so we are in business for tonight.  I also bought a whole chicken for tomorrow or Monday.

Chickens (and other fowl) are shown in butcher shops with the head and feet still attached so buyers can see what they are getting.  The butcher asked me if I want him to trim it up and if I want the gizzard, liver, etc.  It takes a few minutes for him to get it all ready and in the process, he lit his torch and singed it so it would be free of feathers.


Fred has been telling me we need some back up wine in case we want to have our neighbors or landlords in for an apertif.  We have been keeping nuts and olives on hand for just such times.  So after the market, we went to the supermarket for milk, orange juice, and apertif materials.  I also got a little personal pizza for lunch. 

As soon as I finished lunch, I headed back to Notre Dame du Port, a 12th century church for a guided walking tour.  This weekend is a celebration called Journees du Patrimoine - days of history and culture.  Various tours and programs are available free at locations around town (and the country).   This tour is about sculpture and stained glass in this church and in the main cathedral. 

 The tour is all in French and I am pleasantly surprised to understand most of the tour - when I can hear that is.  Apparently they did not expect 150 people on this tour.  Way too many for one guide, but she appears to be an experienced guide - she does well at being heard and is an interesting guide.

After Notre Dame du Port, we walk to two fountains, the first in Place du Terrail, just outside the old city gat.

Then on to Place de la Victoire and the statue of Pope Urban II with fountain.

After the place, we go into the cathedral for more info on stained glass and architecture.


Two hours later, I head back to Notre Dame du Port where an orchester program is scheduled for the courtyard at 4:00.  Fred has been working, but joins me for the concert, which we both enjoy.  The first number is a bit rocky, but after that, they get better fast. 

It is obvious from the solos that they have some really talented people.   The director explains at the end he can't do an encore because another concert is scheduled shortly in the church.  Fred and I decide to stay to see what happens next. 

The second concert is a three person group doing simple traditional songs of the region.  One fellow sings, accompanied by historic instruments string instruments and drums.  One of the stringed instruments has 30 strings and the player is great.  The singer uses his voice like an instrument and makes maximum use of the acoustics in the old stone church to show his talent.  This photo is of some kids playing in the courtyard after the concert.

When that concert is over, we head home to catch the end of the Kansas State football game.   We are listening now to the last 2 minutes.  Next is dinner and I am hungry - I walked a lot again today.

Sunday, 12 September – Clermont

Today we have nothing planned – we have the day free!  We start with breakfast at home, then walk to the nearby churches to find mass times so we can get to church most weeks, sometimes in different churches.   There is a church about a block away, but it is being renovated and services are held in other buildings in the neighborhood.  There is a map posted of nearby churches, so we head out to another in a part of town we are not familiar with. 

We return through the train station, noting the open hours for a butcher shop we have been referred to by our neighbors.  We have walked 1 ½ hours already.  We take a short break, then are off again. 

We walk by one of the oldest churches in town, Notre Dame du Port, a Romanesque basilica, dating from the 12^th century.  It is on the UNESCO World Heritage list.  When we lived here 10 years ago, we attended this church often.  For the last 4 or 5 years there has been ongoing construction to clean and repair it inside and out.  Many of the older churches in France now belong to the state or city, mostly because of historical significance and cost to maintain.  They are considered national monuments and are open to the public.  We make a note of the normal mass schedule and then go inside.  It is beautiful and has been nicely restored.  When we were here before, we remember it as being mostly gray inside, but now it is shades of yellow and appears much lighter.

Then we wander through the center of town, built on an old volcanic cone, searching for a restaurant Fred has been in and wants to try again, but we have no luck.  In the process we walk another 90 minutes.  We stop to rest in Place de la Victoire, next to the main cathedral. 

Place de la Victoire

The gothic cathedral is built of black volcanic lava stone on the top of a volcanic cone in the center of town and is quite imposing. Construction began in 1248 by the architect Jean Deschamps and was not completed until the towers were added in the 19^th century by the architect Violet-le-Duc.   In the open square there is a staute of Pope Urban II, as he held a council in Clermont in 1095, calling for the first crusade. 

We have a snack of cheese and a fresh peach, then go on down the hill from the cathedral.  In front of us is the main shopping street, Rue de Gras.  In the distance is Puy de Dome, an extinct volcano. 

We pass through our old neighborhood, then make our way toward Chamaliere.  Fred wants to find the Chamaliere Bridge Club building where he used to play chess.  We stop and sit on park benches along the way.  When we locate the building, it is quiet, so we stop for another snack – chausson au pomme, or small apple pie.  A man comes out of the building and Fred asks him about the chess club, which used to meet on Sunday afternoons and on Wednesday evenings.  The man finds a contact name for Fred and says they may have stopped for the summer and have not yet resumed. 

We move on and stop again by a shopping area in Chamaliere.  There we find an art exhibition that is open and spend some time enjoying the show.  Then on toward our goal, Le Biniou in Royat, a smaller town further up the hill.  Royat has been known for years as a spa town.  There is a stream running through town that is harnessed and used in a hydrotherapy spa.  There is also a casino (gambling variety) in town and lots of mostly older people from around the country come here in spring, summer, and fall for the fresh air and water.  We just think it is a pretty place with a really nice park, and our favorite restaurant. 

We are early, it is only 5:30 and we try not to arrive for dinner until 7:00 pm, so we stop at a sidewalk café and have a mini beer and watch the people.  Apparently this  bar/tabac is the only place open to buy cigarettes and magazines on Sunday afternoon – it is quite busy.  It begins to rain, but we are under an awning, so we sit and relax. 

At 6:30 we move on toward Royat, walking beside a lovely park, with flowers along the street. 



Eglise St Leger, Royat, France



Place Cohendy, Royat, France

The church in Royat is across the stream and up the hill.  It also dates from the 12^th or 13^th century. 

We see that there is also an art exhibition in the local museum, but can find no notice of mass times.  Part of the related fortress is now home of the cycling association – remember, most of the older churches are now owned by the city or state. 

Royat, France

Then we make our way down to the restaurant.  Last week when we were here, I asked about the veal which is on the menu, but is crossed out.  This week they have veal in sauce porto, fabulous!  We start with our usual green salad with warm blue cheese dressing.  I end with raspberry tiramisu – WOW, and Fred has a 3 dip chocolate Sundae – our rewards for walking all day. 

We walk part way home, then hop on the bus.  Even so it is 11 pm when we arrive.  Fred has a 9 am meeting to off to bed we go!