31 October - Clermont Ferrand

Friday and Saturday we discussed the time change at least 5 times, then forgot (the date is different in France and the US).  We planned to go to church at 11:00 at Notre Dame du Port, about 10 minutes from our apartment.  

Just as we were finishing breakfast, we heard the bells and knew we should get going.  However, when we walked in the door, we realized it was the end of mass, not the beginning - THEN we remembered the time change.  So we walked another 5 minutes to the main cathedral and  got there on time for the 10 am high mass (the main mass for the city).

Cathedrale - Clermont-Ferrand

The cathedral, Notre Dame de l'Assomption, is a gothic cathedral, built of black lava stone.  It is also a national historic monument, as are many of the older churches in France.  The costs to restore and maintain are quite high. 

There has been a cathedral on this site since at least the 5th century.  The current building was begun in 1248 by the architect/builder Jean Deschamps. Some of the stained glass windows also date from the 13th century.  The cathedral was completed about 1884 by a student of Viollet le Duc.  Le Duc is famous for restoration / renovations of major cathedrals, including Notre Dame de Paris and fortified cities, including Carcassonne.

Some of you know I am not catholic, but my husband is. When we are in France, we go to mass.  There is an Anglican church in Royat that has services in English, but we prefer to attend in the neighborhood.  It also helps us improve our French. 

For those of you who are not Catholic, much of the service is the same or similar week to week, so it is not difficult to follow, even in another language.  In addition, we have found a small book store near the cathedral that sells a book for young people that explains the mass.  It includes the scripture readings (in French) for each week, but with some of the words defined.  We read that during the week, checking our english language Bibles if needed, then are able to better understand the service.  I recommend this when you are traveling and want to attend church. 

For this high mass, some parts of the service, including the Nicene Creed were in latin.  It is quite moving to worship in a manner and a place where other Christians have worshiped for hundreds of years.

Another benefit of attending mass at the cathedral is this:

Cathedrale - Clermont-Ferrand

There has been an organ in this cathedral since the middle ages.  According to one account, this organ was built here in 1874.  There are three keyboards each with 54 keys each and a pedal keyboard with 27 keys, The organ has 2,562 pipes. The organist has the ability to play 42 different instruments that can vary in tone and power. The inauguration of the organ was May 26, 1877.  The current organist is Francois Clement, also a professor of music at the regional conservatory of music in Clermont-Ferrand.


Francois Clement at the organ